Travel report: Cycling trip around Lake Constance and to the Rhine Falls

From our guests Veronika and Manfred in September 2023

A little over a year into retirement, I fulfilled a long-cherished wish for the best wife of all and booked with Radweg-Reisen back in April 2023...

Despite a brief moment of shock - she had fallen during a walk on the way there and injured her knee - we picked up our ordered bikes in Constance the next day full of joyful anticipation. Without wishing to flatter - we felt that we were well looked after right from the start! It's not just the friendly welcome that's worth mentioning, a bike change requested at short notice was also carried out without any problems, and so after a night in the very nice Hotel Halm, we actually set off.

Since the Rhine Falls in Schaffhausen was a declared destination for me, we had chosen the route via the island of Reichenau followed by a short boat trip to Gaienhofen. Unfortunately, we didn't have enough time to see its beauty, but Stein am Rhein made up for it - and also for the fact that some of the climbs were a bit tough for us e-bike deniers ("If you love your bike, push it"). This town is a one-of-a-kind open-air museum!!!

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Stein on the Rhine
Stein on the Rhine

Schaffhausen's historic center was not far behind, and yet the highlight of the day was still ahead of us. The illuminated Rhine Falls are simply a must-see, and I put this experience in the same category of beautiful travel memories as seeing the Northern Lights in Norway (2017) or visiting Peterhof in St. Petersburg (2012)...

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Schaffhausen
Schaffhausen

We extended the (booked) boat trip from Schaffhausen back to Stein am Rhein by a few stops - that's how comfortable we felt on board the MS "Munot" - and besides, we still had a good 40 kilometers to Überlingen ahead of us. Once we had completed the climbs before Bodman, the pleasure cycling really began. The route led us along huge apple orchards to some of the Peter Lenk sculptures. Whatever you think of them, we found them absolutely worth seeing, funny and thought-provoking...

Überlingen was another pleasant surprise. Even the view from the window of the Bad Hotel was incredibly impressive, and when we walked along the lakeside promenade after a good dinner and a stroll through the town, we felt like we'd been transported to the south - including evening cocktails on the hotel terrace...

 

Überlingen

Friday: We didn't let the only rainy day spoil our mood, packed ourselves and our bikes into the train for a short ride and thus had much more time than planned to explore another "must see", the Zeppelin Museum in Friedrichshafen. That done, after a short break, we strolled along the lake here too and enjoyed life.

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Zeppelin Museum, Friedrichshafen
Friedrichshafen

It was Saturday morning and the weather was really autumnal for the first time. That is to say - the temperatures when we set off in the morning were certainly autumnal, but of course we were not affected by this. However, we had to have a glass of mulled wine at lunch in Lindau... To rave about the beauty of Lindau Island would probably be like carrying owls to Athens, but there was still a lot waiting for us.

For example, the cable car ride to and the view from the Bregenz Pfänder...

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Pfänderbahn, Bregenz
View from the Pfänder, Bregenz

And then a romantic walk along the promenade in the evening - a wonderful thing even after 42 years of marriage and now several years past 60...

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Bregenz
Bregenz

The next day, we crossed the old Rhine delta and, after a few stops (e.g. for lunch in Rorschach), we reached our penultimate destination for the day, the picturesque little town of Arbon in Switzerland.

The castle-like Hotel Römerhof offered us accommodation for one night, and the very nice service lady at breakfast made it even more difficult for us to say goodbye. Before that, however, we still had time to take in the sights of Arbon - including the (alleged) footprint of St. Gallus, who was probably well over 50 in sandal size.

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Arbon
Arbon

Our cycle tour came to an end all too quickly, and so after a fish crisp and pizza lunch in Kreuzlingen, we did an extra loop around the Konstanzer Horn.

After cycling a total of more than 210 kilometers, we arrived back at the starting point of our trip happy and healthy. Due to the predominantly positive experiences, this will certainly not have been our last cycling trip. The organization by Radweg-Reisen was excellent and we would like to thank them for that.

As a finale, we had booked an extra night in "Konschtanz", which not only allowed us to get to know this largest city on Lake Constance, sometimes referred to as the "northernmost city in Italy", but also a boat trip on Lake Überlingen lasting several hours. At least we were able to see the pilgrimage church of Birnau and the pile-dwelling village at Unteruhldingen from the lake side (see above - rainy day).

Ten days after our departure, we arrived safely back in our home town, around 30 kilometers south of Vienna. We are already looking forward to new cycling experiences!