Travel report: Cycling in the valley of the young Danube

Day 1

After a relatively relaxed journey, we arrive in Donaueschingen in the afternoon. The bikes are quickly unloaded and ready for tomorrow in the garage. In glorious summer weather, we are immediately drawn to the Danube. But first we have to walk along the Brigach for quite a while before it meets the Breg at the source of the Danube and here "Brigach and Breg bring the Danube to us". On the way back, which takes us along the other side of the Brigach, we also discover Fürstenberg Castle and the source of the Danube. The historic town hall and the surrounding Art Nouveau houses are also worth seeing. And the musicians' fountain in front of it looks so realistic that we almost think we can hear the sounds of the Danube waltz.

Day 2

Blue skies, sunshine - a perfect start to the Danube Cycle Path. We cycle through the magnificent park of Fürstenberg Castle, leave the source of the Danube to the left and immerse ourselves in the wide Danube valley. The cycle path winds its way through nature past lush green meadows and golden yellow fields. We see the first stork and cheer. Then we see a second and a third. After a short time, we give up counting, there are so many of them. While observing them, we suddenly witness a stork catching and eating a mouse. However, as we find out later, its daily ration consists of 16 mice or 500 earthworms. We reach the Danube seepage far too quickly, at least at the beginning of the footpath leading here. We enjoy every step along the narrow path, following the narrow Danube sometimes at eye level and then from a considerable height, until we reach the place where the riverbed is dry in other summers. We don't have this experience due to all the rain in recent weeks, but we are still thrilled. Back on the cycle path, the valley narrows and we reach the town of Tuttlingen through the beautiful Donaupark.

Day 3

Is there a better word for blue? If so, then bluer, if not bluest, would be a fitting description for the sky that greets us this morning. We leave Tuttlingen and expectantly follow the signs to Sigmaringen. We quickly start shouting "ah" and "oh" in turn, we find the route so beautiful. The initially wide Danube valley narrows and we soon discover the first chalk cliff. Although we are almost magically drawn further into the Danube valley, we take the time to visit the small town of Fridingen. And marvel at the historic town center with its enchanting half-timbered ensemble and Ifflinger Castle.

Back on the bike, we have no words to describe the beauty of this section. Although we don't see a dry riverbed in Immendingen either, we do see rugged, gleaming white limestone cliffs, mighty rock massifs, castles or castle ruins on high peaks and the rippling waters of the young Danube again and again.

Around Beuron Monastery, we encounter many groups of hikers and pilgrims, and the monastery itself also seems to be very busy. So we postpone the visit to a later vacation and continue to be enchanted by the magnificent natural surroundings. The cycling experience remains fantastic all the way to Sigmaringen and is topped off by the sight of the castle reflected in the Danube in all its glory.

Day 4

After marveling at the Hohenzollern Palace from all sides yesterday, in full sunlight and in the evening sun, we take a look inside today. With an audio guide in the still empty palace, we feel quite small in the huge, magnificent rooms. It is definitely impressive, but we are drawn back to nature and the Danube. We glide along shady paths, cross small villages, pass through the lively town of Mengen with its beautiful half-timbered houses and then continue our journey in completely different surroundings. We pass through meadows, grain and corn fields with sweeping views over the countryside. In Riedlingen, the renaturalized Danube and the historic old town with half-timbered houses over 100 years old are beautiful. The temperature has now risen to 33 degrees, so we are not sad that today's stage is shorter and we can relax in the shade.

Day 5

Today is "monastery day". From Riedlingen to Zwiefaltendorf, the route leads close to the Danube through lots of greenery with frequent splashes of blossom. Once we arrive in Zwiefaltendorf, we don't think twice and take the detour to Zwiefalten to visit the monastery there. Instead of walking along the road and over the hill, as we had feared, we take a leisurely stroll through the forest. We soon arrive at the monastery church and are speechless when we see the interior. Overwhelming is probably the right word. The Sunday mass has just finished with the last organ sounds and we take in all the splendor. The monastery garden, actually more of a monastery park, is also worth a visit. Back on the Danube cycle path, it is not long before the next monastery awaits us: Obermarchtal. This is also an impressive complex with a lavishly decorated collegiate church. After the visit, we continue our enjoyable cycle to Munderkingen, relax with a large redcurrant spritzer in a cozy beer garden next to the historic town hall and reach our destination for today's stage: Ehingen on the still beautiful Danube cycle path.

Day 6

With summer temperatures still pleasant, we set off for Ulm, leaving the Danube Valley behind us. The recommended alternative route to the signposted Danube Cycle Path leads via Blaubeuren and the famous Blautopf. So instead of cycling along the Danube, we now cycle along the Schmiech, then the Ach and finally the Blau. In Blaubeuren, we stop, of course, and take a thorough tour of the Benedictine monastery complex with its impressive monks' bathhouse. The famous late Gothic double-winged high altar in the monastery church is well worth a visit. From the monastery, we can almost see the bright blue-green of the Blautopf. It's incredible that such an intense blue exists in nature. Even though the phenomenon is easy to explain, it remains fascinating for a long time. How nice that our eyes can relax in the green of the wide landscape as we continue our journey to Ulm. And then suddenly we are in the big city. Confusing construction sites, car noise and modern office architecture form a stark contrast to the natural experience we have had so far.

We let it all pass us by and are delighted when we finally come across the Danube again on the promenade. However, it is a completely different river than before. It is wide and mighty, and nothing reminds us of the idyllic young Danube behind Donaueschingen.

Fortunately, there is still enough time to spend the beautiful summer evening strolling through the historic fishing district, paying a flying visit to the cathedral and enjoying an ice cream on the banks of the Danube.

Day 7

We entered Ulm through roadworks and are now leaving it through roadworks again. But soon we are back in the countryside. Many rowing boats glide elegantly along the Danube and we follow the cycle path, crossing the border from Baden-Württemberg into Bavaria. Our first destination today is the Rococo-style Liebfrauenkirche church in Günzburg. A real gem. It has become hot, so we are more creeping than walking through the pretty town. Nevertheless, we are more than impressed by the beautiful houses in the old town and the castle. Then we continue through the Donauried. We are happy about every little bit of shade and still try to appreciate the many bird and plant species on the right and left of the path. In the Albertus Magnus town of Lauingen, we marvel at the interesting Schimmelturm tower and the Bruckhaus before recovering from the heat in the hotel and replenishing our fluid reserves. The many families in the hotel are looking forward to Legoland, and we enjoy a leisurely stroll through beautiful Lauingen.

Day 8

From Lauingen, we quickly reach Dillingen. What a beautiful town! Town houses line both sides of the main street, with a magnificent town gate at the end, the castle on the right and St. Peter's Church on the left. We could stay here again. But another highlight is not far away: the 15th-century Höchstädt Castle. An impressive complex with a beautiful courtyard and a nice café, which unfortunately is only open on weekends.

For the first time, the following kilometres are not just cycling pleasure. The Danube is far away, and we cycle for a long time along the road in the blazing sun. Fortunately, there is a beer garden with plenty of shade and cold drinks, so we can easily manage the remaining kilometres to the confluence of the Danube and Wörnitz rivers in the town of Donauwörth. We are already reconciled; this place is worth every bit of torture.

The imposing Rieder Tor gate gives us a fitting welcome, and we stroll leisurely along Reichsstraße between the town hall and the Fuggerhaus so that we can admire the magnificent patrician houses on both sides of the street at our leisure. Now we only have to cycle to Wörnitzstein. The route is beautiful and the incline manageable, so that we reach the last hotel of this cycling trip completely sweaty but happy.