I didn't even think about traveling this year for a long time. After a long lockdown and constantly changing risk areas, vacations are not as easy to plan as they were on my last bike trip two years ago. Where, what, when, how? But then it suddenly happens surprisingly quickly: inspired by vacation reports and recommendations from friends, plus - in contrast to other regions of France - low case numbers in Brittany, I think: not going away on vacation at all is also stupid, didn't I already have that in mind when I got the vaccine? Still a passionate leisure cyclist with good experience of cycle path trips, I take a look at the website to see what's on offer. As it turned out, my decision was as good as it was last minute.
Where is the beach? I have to laugh at myself today and put it down to my tiredness after the journey. Google Maps shows a lot of beach in the immediate vicinity of the hotel. But there is only water. A ramp for launching boats and a ladder further out to sea. Two offshore islands in the sea. Nowhere is there even the slightest chance of getting to the water. Thick, high wooden stakes between the sea and the city wall. I didn't give it a second thought, but the mystery was solved during the extra days. More about this - and Saint Malo in general - at the end. Traveling to Brittany from the Stuttgart area is ideal for me with the TGV. Only 1 change in Paris, total travel time 8 hours. You can't do that by car and I don't need it on site. It's about 1.3 kilometers from the train station to the old city center, where the hotel is located. I push my suitcase along the dead-straight street, while the manif (demonstration) against the French government's coronavirus policy comes towards me, loud and framed by blue lights.
Show more Show lessLeaving the historic city center via the Dinan gate, you head towards the Rance estuary. If you can't find the right way straight away: Stay calm! It doesn't get any more difficult! And there is plenty of time, the first stage is not that long. The cycle path was certainly not invented here. I bravely fight my way through and have the impression that the car drivers are very considerate after all. Done! And it gets easier at first, then quieter and finally really idyllic. The small villages of Jouan and Saint Suliac, the latter so charming that I spend some time there.
Later, it's a brisk descent to the port of La Pommerais and the last stage on the towpath along the River Rance to the port of Dinan. I happily accept the congratulations in the route description on reaching my destination for the day. But it's another steep climb to the hotel. Several rewards await at the top: A medieval town, a beautiful hotel with a long and interesting history and a magnificent view.
To start, I head back down towards the port, where I arrived yesterday. A small path branches off under the viaduct, which - as I read in the description the previous evening and can see straight away - requires a little caution in wet conditions. It's raining now, of course. Despite the muddy path, some people are jogging, others are walking their dogs and people greet each other in a friendly manner. I particularly like the small village of Léhon with its monastery, which I soon reach. The dark sky and rain this morning give it a mystical air. Afterwards, an enchanting cycle path leads right along the banks of the River Rance and now the rain jacket can go in the bag because the sun is coming out.
Show more Show lessI reach my destination for today, Combourg, in the early afternoon. The hotel is beautifully situated right in front of the castle lake. I start by relaxing on a bench in the sun by the lake, where the French couple I'm friends with come along the road in a camper van. They will also be spending the next few days in the area and I am delighted that we can meet up here. I greet them with my stylish helmet-rain-wind hairstyle and an outfit that makes it easy to see the state of the road this morning. Later, freshly showered, we have lots to talk about. We stroll through the small town and arrange to have dinner together at the hotel in the evening. Tip: The cuisine is very good, the ambiance is very nice and the prices are still moderate.
Today's stage is the most demanding. 8.00 a.m. breakfast, 9.30 a.m. departure, this has now become established and proven itself. The start, past the lake in the morning sun, is beautiful. We continue in this morning mood through picture-book villages such as Dingé, where a romantic 15th century castle can be seen. Well-kept and flower-decorated estates, lots of hydrangeas. Brittany as you would imagine it. No matter who you meet in this tranquil landscape, even the professional racing bike team coming towards me, you greet each other. I find another nice spot for a picnic. There is never a shortage of them. Either an official picnic spot in the countryside, or in a village where there are always nice benches on the well-kept, flower-decorated village square next to the bakery and butcher, near the Mairie (mayor's office).
I quickly reach Fougères in the afternoon and realize by now that Brittany is hilly and not flat. A tip for sightseeing: start in the beautiful public garden by the church at the top of the village, where the hotel is located. It's beautifully laid out in terraces, you have a wonderful view and can walk down to the castle and into the town.
Once we arrive at the castle below, we enjoy galettes (the ones made from dark flour) and cider tonight. It comes in a bulbous bottle with a cork, and once you've tasted it, you won't like the cider from the supermarket in Germany. For dessert, a pêche-melba with lots of crème chantilly - mmmhhh...
A look at today's elevation profile: moderate ups and downs, but a steeper climb shortly before the end, then flat, then a steeper descent. I am excited. I cycle through typical Breton villages again and past very elegant, spacious country houses with beautifully manicured gardens. After the village of Artrain, I cycle uphill on the cycle lane parallel to the road. A little uncomfortable and long.
Show more Show lessAt the top, the arrow to the picnic area is just what I need. Especially as it's already past midday. Studying the map, I realize that this was just the interesting climb I had noticed on the map. I get company, a car turns in. A Frenchman and his mother unpack their cool bag. They are on their way to Saint Malo. How do I know that? They watch me curiously as I saddle my bike to continue my journey and then want to know whether I'm from the north or south of France. I clarify and we have a little chat.
The charming Hotel Montgomery in Pontorson is a special feature within the historic walls. You don't just stay in the hotel, you also visit it. A real highlight. I can order breakfast for tomorrow from the extremely courteous gentleman at reception.
Breakfast in the garden of the manor house - pure romance. Everything I ordered the night before is served to me portioned and covered in a coronavirus-friendly way. From the jam to some cold milk for the muesli. What a great start to the day. Still a little sore from the conditional highlight the day before yesterday, the cultural highlight of the tour is on the agenda today - Mont Saint Michel. From Pontorson, it's 7 kilometers straight along the river to Mont Saint Michel. It is soon visible from afar. Arriving at the bike parking lot, I take the free Navette (shuttle). Breathtaking and very busy, I have already visited it in winter and only stay for a short time. The onward journey to Cancale first takes me across fields and past old salt pans and later directly along the coast. Beautifully maintained cycle paths, brightly colored groups of surfers and lots and lots of sea. Surprisingly, we cycle uphill again away from the coast and then down to Cancale with a wonderful view. Here it is obligatory to try oysters. The digestive walk gives me an idea of how the day will begin tomorrow: a steep climb up to the Mairie of Cancale, from where we continue to Saint Malo and where we can stock up on water and snacks for the last stage. But first, I enjoy the view over the sea with the windows wide open and fall asleep to the soothing sound of the sea.
Show more Show lessThe fact that there are several swimming opportunities today motivates you to set off even faster. The ascent is soon done, but very strenuous in the morning. Then comes the first break. The Pointe du Grouin is reached. This small, pointed headland with a bird island in front of it is so idyllic and beautiful that you simply have to park your bike and explore it on foot. I choose the last bay indicated in the route description for a swim, just 5 kilometers before the finish. It is sunny. The water is turquoise, moving and fresh, but not cold. The beach is busy, but not crowded. A perfect afternoon of swimming by the sea. After passing the very nice Pointe de la Varde, who would have thought it, full attention is required once again. The entrance to Saint Malo begins. Soon I'm already approaching Intra Muros. To my right - aha - the beach. Unmissable, long and beautiful, very busy. It's low tide. The islands that I saw far out at sea last Sunday are being populated by beachgoers.
Saint Malo is too good just for the arrival and departure day. The town is beautiful. So is the beach, provided the tide is low. Swimmers, jumpers, joggers and mudflat walkers - there's something for everyone within the time window. There are also shallow areas for children and group courses in various water sports are offered. A walk on the city wall, where you can walk around the entire old city center with a view of the harbor, the sea and the old town, should not be missed.
The offshore islands are highly recommended. Grand Bé is so beautifully renaturalized, you have a great view of Saint Malo. The French writer Chateaubriand is buried there and you can also find out why he chose this place as his final resting place. Anyone who forgets the time here and finds the way back already washed over - swimming is life-threatening and forbidden due to the current - would then have to stay on the island until the next low tide. Although, honestly, there are certainly worse things. I also visited the aquarium in Saint Malo and can highly recommend it. You can buy tickets in advance (e.g. at the hotel), which has the advantage of being let in quickly.
Conclusion
A very nice, varied cycle tour with a pleasant stage length that leaves you free time on the way and/or at the day's destination. The accommodation locations and hotels all have a certain something and are remarkably well chosen.
Who can I recommend this trip to?
Unlike the well-known routes frequented by tourists (e.g. the Loire or Lake Constance cycle routes), you are often alone and on your own here. So don't expect a well-signposted cycle path and hordes of cyclists. I cycled the tour alone and found it very doable.Whoever
- also cycles similar routes, not just flat, straight ones
- also enjoys quiet Breton towns and landscapes as well as cultural highlights
- likes the sea with the change between high and low tide, also likes to take a dip
- feels, as I do, that they have earned a reward after the day's sporting performance (e.g. in the form of a French/Breton meal). (e.g. in the form of a French/Breton culinary specialty, a pleasant hotel with flair and friendly staff)...you've come to the right place.